Skincare acids can be very effective for improving the look of dullness, uneven texture, clogged pores and blemishes. But if you are new to exfoliating acids, the different names can feel confusing.
Glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid are three of the most common ingredients used in exfoliating skincare. They all help smooth the skin, but they do not work in exactly the same way.
Choosing the right acid depends on your skin type, your main concern and how sensitive your skin is.
What are skincare acids?
Skincare acids are ingredients used to exfoliate the skin. They help remove dead skin cells from the surface or within the pores, depending on the type of acid.
This can help the skin look:
- Brighter
- Smoother
- More even
- Less congested
- Fresher
- More refined
The most common exfoliating acids are split into two main groups: AHAs and BHAs.
AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are water-soluble acids. They mainly work on the surface of the skin and are often used for dullness, uneven texture and dryness.
BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, are oil-soluble acids. They can work inside the pores, making them especially useful for oily, congested or blemish-prone skin.
Glycolic acid: best for dullness and uneven texture
Glycolic acid is an AHA. It is often used to help improve the look of dullness, rough texture and uneven tone.
Because glycolic acid has a small molecular size, it can feel more active on the skin than some other acids. This can make it effective, but it also means it may be too strong for very sensitive or compromised skin.
Glycolic acid may be helpful if your skin looks:
- Dull
- Rough
- Uneven
- Textured
- Sun-damaged
- Less radiant than usual
If you are new to acids, start with a low frequency. Once a week may be enough at first. If your skin feels comfortable, you can increase slowly depending on the product and your tolerance.
Avoid using glycolic acid too often if your skin feels dry, tight or irritated.
Lactic acid: best for dry or dull-looking skin
Lactic acid is also an AHA, but it is often considered a gentler option than glycolic acid.
It can help smooth the surface of the skin while also supporting hydration, which makes it popular for dry, dull or mature-looking skin.
Lactic acid may be a good option if your skin is:
- Dry
- Dull
- Rough
- Dehydrated-looking
- Slightly sensitive
- In need of gentle glow
Because lactic acid is generally milder, it can be a good starting point for those who want to introduce exfoliation without using something too intense.
However, it can still cause irritation if overused. Start slowly and avoid layering it with too many other active ingredients.
Salicylic acid: best for oily and blemish-prone skin
Salicylic acid is a BHA. Unlike glycolic and lactic acid, it is oil-soluble, which means it can work inside the pores.
This makes it especially useful for oily, congested or blemish-prone skin.
Salicylic acid may help with the appearance of:
- Blackheads
- Clogged pores
- Breakouts
- Excess oil
- Uneven texture
- Enlarged-looking pores
If your skin often feels oily or congested, salicylic acid can be a helpful ingredient to include in your routine.
It can be found in cleansers, toners, serums, masks and spot treatments. If you are using a leave-on salicylic acid product, start a few times a week and monitor how your skin responds.
How often should you use exfoliating acids?
How often you use acids depends on your skin type, the strength of the product and what else is in your routine.
As a general guide:
- Sensitive skin: once a week or less
- Dry skin: once or twice a week
- Normal skin: one to three times a week
- Oily skin: two to four times a week, depending on tolerance
- Blemish-prone skin: depends on the product and skin sensitivity
More is not always better. Overuse can lead to dryness, stinging, redness, peeling and barrier damage.
If your skin feels tight, hot or irritated, reduce exfoliation and focus on hydration and barrier repair.
Can you use acids with retinol?
Acids and retinol can both be useful, but they should be combined carefully.
If you are new to either ingredient, avoid using them in the same evening routine. Using acids and retinol together can increase the risk of irritation, especially during winter or if your skin barrier is already sensitive.
A simple weekly routine could look like this:
- Monday: retinol
- Tuesday: hydration and moisturiser only
- Wednesday: gentle acid exfoliant
- Thursday: hydration and moisturiser only
- Friday: retinol
- Weekend: barrier repair and SPF
This kind of rotation allows your skin to benefit from active ingredients without overwhelming it.
What to use after exfoliating acids
After using exfoliating acids, your skin needs hydration and barrier support.
Follow with ingredients such as:
- Hyaluronic acid
- Glycerin
- Niacinamide
- Panthenol
- Ceramides
- Squalane
- Peptides
A moisturiser such as Obagi Hydrate Luxe or SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 can be helpful if your skin feels dry or needs extra comfort after exfoliation.
Avoid applying several strong active products immediately after exfoliating, especially if your skin is sensitive.
SPF is essential when using acids
Exfoliating acids can make the skin more vulnerable to sun damage, especially if used regularly.
This is why SPF is essential.
Apply broad-spectrum SPF every morning, even on cloudy days. This helps protect against pigmentation, premature ageing and uneven tone.
If you are using acids to improve glow or pigmentation, SPF is what helps protect those results.
A simple morning routine could look like this:
- Gentle cleanser
- Hydrating or antioxidant serum
- Moisturiser
- Broad-spectrum SPF
Which acid should you choose?
The best acid depends on your main skin concern.
Choose glycolic acid if your skin is dull, rough or uneven and you already tolerate active ingredients well.
Choose lactic acid if your skin is dry, dull or slightly sensitive and you want a gentler glow.
Choose salicylic acid if your skin is oily, congested or prone to blemishes and blackheads.
If your skin is very sensitive or your barrier feels damaged, pause acids and focus on repair first.
What not to do with skincare acids
To avoid irritation, try not to:
- Use acids every day when starting
- Combine acids with retinol too soon
- Use strong scrubs alongside acids
- Apply acids to irritated or broken skin
- Skip moisturiser
- Skip SPF
- Use several acid products in one routine
- Ignore stinging, burning or peeling
Acids should leave your skin looking smoother and brighter, not raw or uncomfortable.
The takeaway
Glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid can all help improve the appearance of the skin, but they suit different concerns.
Glycolic acid is useful for dullness and texture. Lactic acid is a gentler option for dry or dull-looking skin. Salicylic acid is best for oily, congested and blemish-prone skin.
Start slowly, avoid over-exfoliating and always support your skin with moisturiser and SPF.
The best exfoliating acid is not the strongest one. It is the one your skin can tolerate consistently.
